The fermenting smell of Concord grape takes me back to one of my earliest childhood memories. The wild grape vine on the property line between
our home and the neighbors’ opened doors to the adventure and abundance of late summer in Northern California. I remember walking around the
block, visiting with neighbors, and gleaning fruits such as plums, pomegranates, lowquats and
crabapples, and exploring the morphology of acorns and walnuts that had fallen
to the ground, never quite figuring out how to process them for their promise
of nutmeats. I come from a family of sporadic foragers, shellfish harvesters, and dumpster divers. Many of us do. In fact, it may be a very long line of foragers and hunters.
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a feral & hearty 50+ year old grape vine behind our house on Beacon Hill, Seattle WA |
To my child’s mind, it made little sense for food to waste on
trees, or on the ground for that matter. Foraging was a way to explore my
environment and engage a sense of wonder. It still is. Edible plants like wild mint and
lemony sorrel offer the adventurous tastes of nature.
Reclaiming
wild, neglected and discarded food is my family ethic; and I hope it might also
once again become a wider species ethic.
Perhaps more subversive than simply
diverting edibles from the wasteshed back into the foodshed, however, I’m
interested in foraging as a way to more deeply embed ourselves in the
environments where nearly 80% of Americans now live: cities. What’s so subversive about urban
foraging? First, it pushes us to consider that anthropogenic landscapes (such
as cities) are also natural landscapes where wildness thrives. Second, it challenges tired narratives about modernization and human evolution that make ongoing subsistence invisible.
This is where
the idea of
Crow’s Backyard comes
into greater perspective. Crows are emblematic of this wildness and our interconnectedness with urban nature. The habitat perhaps most closely associated with this
native corvid species is the urban habitat. Crows are birds of the city.
They’re adaptive, inventive, and resilient. In her book
Crow Planet: Essential Wisdom from the Urban Wilderness, Seattle
naturalist Lyanda Haupt writes (p. 13):
Crows remind us that we make our
homes not in a vacuum, but in a zoöpolis, a place where human and wild
geographies meet and mingle.
The idea that modern post-industrial
cities are devoid of wildness, and furthermore that people who live in cities
are disconnected from nature, may well be based on a myth that allows us to
ignore the intricate dimensions of wildness in cities, and the ways in which
human dwellers engage with plants, mushrooms and diverse urban habitats through
the gathering, tending and consumption of wild foods.
Any landscape marked by human intrusion is, in ecological parlance, disturbed, and as a habitat-type, the urban landscape can only be called highly disturbed. The word disturbe has a Latin root, turbare, which means “to agitate” or “to confuse,” “to pour together,” “to mix utterly.” How fitting! Wild and domestic. Native and introduced. Rare and invasive. Pavement and pathway. Human and wild. The extraordinary and the commonplace. (Crow Planet, Haupt, p. 177)
Urban foraging forces us to
reconcile with another myth: that the lifeways of so-called hunter-gatherers
were either long ago sealed in some cave, or else relegated to isolated human
populations who have yet to evolve into modern “homo economicus” –the
hominid species who supposedly gave up inefficient and suboptimal foraging for
the convenience and cheapness of agroindustrial food. What I know from my
family experience, and confirmed in greater detail and complexity through my
work as an anthropologist and ethnoecologist, is that foraging is an ongoing
and thriving contemporary practice that brings great meaning to people, connecting
them with their homelands –whether urban or remote– and to one another.
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borderlines of industry & healing plants |
Gathering wild foods, medicines and
craft material in “Crow’s Backyard” connects people to the wildness of the
urban landscapes in ways that bring us more fully into nature. Urban foraging deepens our relationships with
plants and ecosystems in the city. In doing so, it breaks down the false dualisms
that separate humans from nature, and nature from cities.
All living things together. All eating, breathing, drinking, spawning their seed, raising their young, leaping, crawling, questioning, thriving, just ever so barely getting by. No wonder most of us are mystified about our proper relationship to wild life, when our substrate itself is so thoroughly confounded. No wonder we are unprepared for this remarkable banquet. No wonder we close our eyes, toss birdseed, and hope for the best. (Crow Planet, Haupt, p. 177)
Like crows, people
are adaptive, creative and resilient. And the nature in cities, where many of
us make our homes, offers a tasty, nutritious, and in some places abundant,
wild buffet.
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from wasteshed to foodshed |